In my ongoing efforts to fully enter into Thai culture, I have recently begun learning the Sah Duang, a type of Thai fiddle.

I couldn’t pass up the offer for free lessons made by a regular at the coffee stand I frequent in the mornings. Tawan, a retired musician, has been teaching traditional Thai instruments to children in his neighborhood without charge for the past several years. He offered to spend two hours a week with me, whenever I was free. So we decided on Saturday mornings.

He invited me to come over any evening that week to listen to the children rehearse. That first evening I was not only treated to a really impressive performance by the young band, but Tawan and his wife also fed me and the kids dinner and then GAVE me my own sah to begin practicing with.

I get the impression that his small house is filled every evening with grade-school-aged kids practicing their instruments: string and mallet instruments, Thai flutes and percussion. On his walls hang dozens of handmade instruments, photos of performances with children, Buddha images and shrines. In conversations with Tawan he has more than once mentioned that he is growing older quickly and has little time left to make merit before he dies. His service to the children, and to me, is clearly inspired by a love for the dying art of traditional Thai music, but also by a fear of what awaits him after death. I was recently hanging out with a couple youth from my Bible study and they testified that the security of knowing they will be in heaven for eternity is one of the greatest blessings they’ve received in their conversion from Buddhism.

I have now had two lessons so far on Saturday mornings at Tawan’s house, where he teaches me along with one or two other kids who are learning the sah duang as well. From the first meeting I realized I would not only be learning a new instrument, but also a new notation system that bares little resemblance from the one I’m so familiar with. I’m finding that my Western musical background does not help me as much as I thought it would. Not only are the notes written in Thai characters, but melodies and rhythms are written out only as a reminder, an approximation of what the music should sound like. If you have not heard the tune, it’s impossible to look at the music and play it accurately.

The instrument itself is one of those that sound really bad until learned well. There are only two strings and nine possible notes, so memorizing them is not difficult. But getting a sound that doesn’t sound like a wailing cat is the tricky part. I pity my neighbors. J Also, there are no frets or other markers on the strings, so you have to use your ear and adjust your fingers in position and pressure to get the note in tune. And anything but gentle, steady motion with the bow produces painful squeals.

But I am hopeful that with some work I will be able to produce the beautiful sound the sah is capable of. I’m not sure how exactly this will fit into my ministry here, but at least I hope it will communicate to those I am serving that I value and enjoy their culture, I have not come to impose mine. Perhaps I will be able to implement the instrument in worship here, or teach others who are interested how to play it. But for now, it is a way God is allowing me to enjoy another aspect of this country, and to learn and receive, a humbling position for a missionary, but a necessary one.